Cindy Fan

Taking the plunge in the Swiss capital

By Cindy Fan

“Are we having fun yet?” I gasp through clenched teeth. A thousand icy needles seem to be piercing my skin. I try to stay afloat, taking shallow, panicked breaths, and yet I feel more alive than ever.

It’s summertime in Bern, capital of Switzerland. I’ve joined hundreds of people swimming down the frigid Aare (pronounced Ar-reh) River and we’re all whooping and laughing like children.

The scenario is inconceivable in many ways. First, I’ve voluntarily jumped into 19C water. Though this is considered warm by Aare standards, it took every iota of courage and a torrent of cursing to get in. The 288km-long waterway is fed by glacier meltwater from the Swiss Alps. The temperature can rise to 22C, if you’re lucky, and enthusiasts will still venture in when it hovers around 14C in May and October. The Gfrorli-Club (which roughly translates as “the freezing person club”) has the edge on the Bondi Icebergs Club. These diehards take the plunge year round, even when the water drops to 3C.

The second absurdity is that I’m swimming in a river that runs through the heart of a capital city. Could you imagine doing breaststroke, let alone dipping a toe into, the Thames, Chao Phraya or Seine? In the sunlight, the Aare sparkles like a blue topaz, so clean and clear that details of the rocks are visible below.

With five of Switzerland’s five largest cities located on a lake or river, it’s no surprise the locals are trailblazers for urban swimming. During lunch break, the Aare swells with students and office workers going for a dip. Earlier, I watched in amazement as a man walked on to the pedestrian bridge, packed his phone and businesswear into a dry bag, nonchalantly climbed over the railing and did a backflip in. On hot weekends, the Aare is a highway of kayaks, stand-up paddleboards and rafts.

For the newcomer, it’s a highly unusual experience. I’m drifting past waterfront bars, commuters on bicycles and quaint homes with pretty tiled roofs. A flotilla of rafts full of rambunctious students paddles by; they have taken the train upriver and started their school trip from the town of Thun. Whoosh, a bus rumbles across the bridge above. The stately parliament building looms ahead, gleaming with self-importance.

A clean, swimmable river is a fantasy for most capitals, but it is fitting for a city that looks like a fairytale. The Aare wraps protectively around Bern’s historic old town. The UNESCO World Heritage site is a medieval labyrinth of cobblestone alleyways and arcades, featuring more than 100 sculptured fountains, and stone bridges you can imagine a cantankerous troll lurking under. At its heart is a 15th-century gothic cathedral and a clock tower featuring mechanical bears that dance on the hour. Floating down the Aare grants a fish-eye view of it all.

For Lea Kusano, a 42-year-old executive at a law firm, wild swimming provided stability during Bern’s Covid lockdowns. In search of an outdoor social ritual, Lea founded an informal winter swimming group and tagged it #fridayswim on social media. News quickly spread; even the mayor of Bern joined in. It’s become an all-season weekly get-together.

“It’s a special bond one develops with other people. By doing something extreme, one stays attentive towards the other, caring for them in a way. Being able to swim all year round gives me, personally, a great sense of freedom.”

There is something to this. The Swiss can be rather buttoned up in daily life, yet here in the Aare, the atmosphere is convivial, almost riotous. Cold water ironically warms everyone up.

To join the fun, the first step is to check the water temperature on the aare.guru website. Anything above 18C is ideal.

Head to the Marzili, the most popular spot for swimmers, where free, open-air public pools are fed by the river. This being Switzerland, everything has been thought of. There’s a dive pool, one for doing laps and another for children. Sunbathers have the choice of raised wooden platforms and an expansive manicured lawn, including a women-only section. Picnic tables are available, and snacks are for sale (the summertime holy trinity of sausage, french fries and gelato), plus there’s a book exchange, table tennis, volleyball court, showers, change rooms and lockers.

Hanging out at the Marzili is a great option for those who aren’t strong swimmers. Otherwise, join the lively pilgrims on the footpath walking 1km-2km upriver, before floating back down, getting out and doing it all over again.

In the know

There are inherent risks with swift water, including spring flooding, powerful currents and hypothermia. Only strong swimmers should venture in. Visitors should first try the three popular spots, the Marzili, Lorraine or Muri, and use the designated entry/exit points. When in doubt, ask the locals.

This story was published in The Australian’s Travel+Luxury on July 16-17, 2022.